The Scarpa Drago is probably one of the softest shoes you will ever climb in. Out of all the shoes we have reviewed it is up there with one of the most sensitive. It is a high-performance, aggressive climbing shoe.
We have tried and tested this shoe on multiple terrains and used it extensively inside. It does perform well on the rock, but we found they are truly the king of plastic and perfect for bouldering steep overhangs indoors.
Scarpa Drago – Essential Info
Before we fully delve into our personal review of the Scarpa Drago, we’ll give you some essential info. This is a brief technical overview of the shoe. We recommend actually trying the physical shoe before buying, but this gives you a brief idea of what to expect.
- Downturn: Aggressive
- Material: Textile, Microfiber
- Strap: Velcro
- Closure: Hook-and-Loop Closure
- Weight: 400g
- Sole / Thickness: Vibram XS Grip 2 / 3.5mm
- Fit: Normal Foot / Medium Volume
- Foot Shape: Egyptian
- Testing Size: -1 (UK)
- Gender: Unisex
One of the standout features of the Scarpa Drago lies in its Vibram XS Grip 2 sole, boasting a thickness of 3.5mm. This configuration contributes to the shoe’s remarkable flexibility and softness, delivering an unparalleled grip on both plastic and rock.
This shoe will definitely be making our list of best bouldering shoes soon. It is a top performer, and there are few which compare from what we have reviewed so far.
The Scarpa Drago Reviewed
We had to test the shoe ourselves. We did this to provide an authentic opinion. We tested them by bouldering both indoors and outdoors. This gave us the chance to have a complete overview of its performance in different scenarios.
Pros
- Sensitivity
- Excellent friction
- Softness
Cons
- Expensive
- Durability (due to softness)
The Design and Performance of the Scarpa Drago Shoe
The Scarpa Drago is a high-performance climbing shoe designed for advanced boulderers, particularly those focused on steep and overhanging routes. We found you could feel every little bump when wherever you stepped.
The Drago’s design prioritises sensitivity, it allowed us to feel and respond to the nuances of the terrain, making it an excellent choice for those seeking optimal performance and precision.
Additionally, toe-hooking is a standout feature, thanks to the added rubber over the toe and grip. Nevertheless, if you are a slab climber, it’s best to avoid these shoes as there is zero support in the midsole and can get tiring quickly.
Overall, the Scarpa Drago is an excellent choice for shorter sport-climbing routes and overhanging bouldering problems. Its sensitivity and versatility, coupled with the soft rubber, make it a valuable asset for climbers seeking a high-performance climbing shoe.
The Fit of the Scarpa Drago
Depending on your preference you can buy this at street size. We still reduced it by one, but we must admit it was rather snug. Our tester (me) found they were actually comfortable for a high-end shoe. They also performed straight out of the box and did not need any ‘breaking in’ time.
The shoe is also very aggressive, therefore it is not designed to be worn over a long period. It can get painful if you leave them on too long.
Bouldering Indoors – King of Plastic
If you are a fan of bouldering hard indoors then the Scarpa Drago is for you. It is particularly good for technical climbing, especially if you need a shoe with precision.
The shoe is extremely sensitive and you can feel everything. It works best on overhangs, especially if you need to toe hook, as the rubber area provides enough contact surface around your toe to easily hold on.
What is also underrated, is that this shoe looks amazing. It’s one of our favourite looking bouldering shoes we have looked at.
Bouldering Outdoors – Lack of Durability
The Scarpa Drago can also perform outdoors. However, we found that they were a bit painful. The sensitivity really does make the rock hurt. You have to sacrifice having tender toes in order for these to work.
Furthermore, they really do not last all that long. The durability is poor, and if you were to use these outside they’d be ruined rather quickly.
Conclusion: The Scarpa Drago Is a Top Choice
There’s a reason Magnus Mitbø wears these shoes. They are high performers with fantastic sensitivity. We really loved them for bouldering indoors. We summarised our favourite points below.
- Sensitive and soft
- Excellent for overhangs
- Very sticky and grippy
FAQs
We have collected common questions related to the Scarpa Drago shoes. They are the ones that our users ask most, so we have provided you with the answers below.
What size down should I go from my street shoes when buying Scarpa Drago?
When we test the shoe we went one size down from our street shoes. You probably could go more, but this was our preference. Like most things, it is something you should try yourself. We enjoy a snug fit!
Are the Scarpa Drago’s good for bouldering or climbing?
We would say it performs good best for bouldering. This is because their aggressive and sensitive fit could make it painful for longer climbs. Even so, they’d do well on small, punchy sport climbing routes.
Should I use the Drago for bouldering indoors or outdoors?
You can use the Scarpa Drago inside and outside. Nevertheless, this is the ultimate shoe of the gym and we would call them the plastic kings, especially for overhangs.