There are hundreds of bouldering shoes on the market, so sometimes the choice can be overwhelming. I have done the testing for you and without further ado, I bring you the best bouldering shoes for 2024:
| Climbing Shoe | Strap | Weight | Score |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scarpa Drago | Single Velcro | 400g | 99 |
| Scarpa Instinct VS | Single Velcro | 430 g | 96 |
| La Sportiva Solution | Single Velcro | 510 g | 93 |
| La Sportiva Skwama | Single Velcro | 510 g | 90 |
| Evolv Shaman | Triple Velcro Strap | 540 g | 87 |
| Five Ten Hiangle | Single Velcro | 225 g | 84 |
As you can see, my top bouldering shoe was the Scarpa Drago, yet all of the featured shoes did well in my tests. In the following paragraphs, I’ll go into further detail on how I gave my ratings and will also describe the process of finding shoes with the best fit for you.
The Best Bouldering Shoes in Detail
1. Scarpa Drago
Essential Info
- Downturn: Aggressive
- Material: Textile, Microfiber
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 400g
- Sole / Thickness: Vibram XS Grip 2 / 3.5mm
- Testing Size: -1 (UK)
My Verdict – 99/100
My favourite shoe is the Scarpa Drago. Their main quality is the sensitivity. You can feel everything under your feet – some won’t like this as it can start to hurt after wearing the shoes for a prolonged period, but it is excellent for precision climbing.
I’d argue this shoe is for the more advanced climber, and it is particularly suitable for overhangs and steeper routes. Another thing I loved was the fact that they were extremely grippy and provided excellent friction against the plastic. I’ve also used these outside, and whilst I would not use them for longer pitches, for short ‘pumpy’ routes they are perfect.
There’s a reason why the pros love this shoe. It is excellent for indoor bouldering and comp style routes. The main drawback is the durability, but this is something all high-end shoes struggle with. Overall, it is my number one and you can find my full Scarpa Drago review here.
2. Scarpa Instinct VS
Essential Info
- Downturn: Aggressive
- Material: Synthetic Leather
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 430g
- Sole / Thickness: Vibram XS Edge / 3mm
- Testing Size: -1 (UK)
My Verdict – 96/100
My second favourite shoe is the Scarpa Instinct VS, similar to the Scarpa Instinct VSR. It’s aggressive fit and stiff supportive sole allows you to uses edges with ease. Toe hooks are also not a problem, with a rubber toe-patch for extra grip. I found the sole to offer great grip and the innovative bi-tension system pushes your toe to the point where you can generate maximum power.
It is made with no stretch Lorica synthetic leather so it won’t stretch. So, make sure it fits right the first time you try. I used a fit 1 below my street size and it was pretty tight. Overall, it is an excellent shoe for bouldering, yet it is also suitable for sport climbing too.
3. La Sportiva Solution
Essential Info
- Downturn: Slight/Medium
- Material: Leather
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 510g
- Sole / Thickness: Vibram XS Grip 2 / 3.5mm
- Testing Size: -1 (UK)
My Verdict – 93/100
One of the best all-round shoes on the market and the first of the La Sportiva in my ranking list is the Solution. It was designed specifically for bouldering and you can tell. The integrated P3 system maintains the shoe’s shape for a long time and means you can always use the heel with good tension.
It is a high performing shoe, the toe, which is pointy, allows full precision on small edges. What’s more, wearing this bouldering shoe, I found that you can generate lots of power and is perfect for the gym or the rock. Outside, the heel offers you the protection that others don’t, and you’ll be thankful you’ll be wearing this one!
4. La Sportiva Skwama
Essential Info
- Downturn: Slight/Medium
- Material: Leather/Synthetic
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 480g
- Sole / Thickness: Vibram XS Grip 2 / 3.5mm
- Testing Size: -1 (UK)
My Verdict – 90/100
Ok, I know there is already one La Sportiva higher up on this list, but they truly know how to produce some of the best bouldering shoes around. They share some similarities with the Solution, namely the P3 system, yet they are definitely softer. I found edging, smearing, toe, and heel hooks were all performed well.
They offer great grip too. For the one time I used the shoes I was very happy with their performance. The main knock with these shoes comes with their durability, with many climbers reporting they only last a few months. That’s ok, but it’s why they are not top of the list!
5. Evolv Shaman
Essential Info
- Downturn: Aggressive
- Material: Synthetic
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 540g
- Sole / Thickness: Trax / 4.2mm
- Testing Size: Street Size
My Verdict – 87/100
If you know who Chris Sharma is, then you should know he designed these bad boys himself. The ladies version called Evolv Shakra are also very well-rated.
This is a top shoe for newer and more experienced climbers or boulderers. It performs well in the gym and the rock. It utilises a tension power system, great heal tension, and an aggressive downturn. When wearing it, I felt the so-called “love bump” (an arch under the toes) and “knuckle box” (space for the big toe) – this translated to keeping your toes in a bent position, but without any strain or pain.
Worn at street size, it was a comfortable fit. Overall, it is great for grip and I think it performs well whilst bouldering.
6. Five Ten Hiangle
Essential Info
- Downturn: Aggressive
- Material: Leather
- Strap: Velcro
- Weight: 225g
- Sole / Thickness: Stealth / 4.2mm
- Testing Size: -0.5 (UK)
My Verdict – 84/100
This is a super easy bouldering shoe to wear. Although it has an aggressive downturn, it is not to the point where it is unbearable and offers a good fit. The Stealth C4 Rubber sole gives you a grip hardly found elsewhere. This could be dangerous the next time you try another shoe!
If you are into tiny edges, overhangs, or vertical terrain then this shoe will perform excellently for you. It fits like a slipper and can be worn between problems. It is said that this stretches, so make sure you size appropriately. I tested .5 below my street size.
How I Tested and Rated
In order to get these scores and rankings I put the shoes through a series of tests. I rated them on various categories – each scored out of ten – to create an overall total score of 100. I tested the shoes in a variety of environments, both indoors and outdoors and used them on different styles of climbing and performed various moves.
- Indoors Bouldering
- Outdoors Bouldering
- Edging
- Smearing
- Pulling
- Hooking
- Price
- Comfort
- Durability
- Closure System
In these assessments, I tried to be fair and unbiased, but it must be said that bouldering shoes are always a personal preference. What I find good, may not suit your foot or style. The key here is to try before you buy. My guide and rating system has years of practice, even so I am not perfect and always strive to improve my process and could add new categories or try different things in the future.
How to Choose the Best Bouldering Shoes for You?
There are a number of factors you need to consider when it comes to choosing the best bouldering shoes. Unlike other forms of climbing, bouldering is heavily reliant on power, and an aggressive downturn is generally seen as a positive. This is so you can perform heel hooks and perform well on edges.
In general, this means your shoes will be uncomfortable to wear. Many times, boulderers will loosen or take off their shoes completely between attempts. Whenever I look at shoes, the following factors weigh heavily in how we choose them for myself:
The Cost of the Shoe
For many of you, this is one of the most important factors. You want the best performance, for the lowest cost. The reality is all the best bouldering shoes will be above £100. Most will cost even a bit more. A good way to counter this is to either choose last years spec or wait for the sales to come round, which they do often. Check out my other bouldering gear reviews regularly for updates.
The Fit
This is a personal taste. Many boulderers will say for the best performance, your shoes should be as tight as possible. This means by the end of an attempt you’ll be ripping off your shoes as your toes pang in agony. That’s for you to decide. A slightly looser fit can also offer good performance.
Even so, depending on your feet different brands may fit uniquely. What’s more, one size with La Sportiva could feel different from Five Ten’s, so it is always good to try before you buy. Many sites offer free returns within X amount of days, so you should definitely utilise this option. As you don’t want to be stuck with a pair of shoes that don’t really fit the way you want!
Strap or Closing System
As you may or may not know, bouldering shoes come in three ways. With a velcro strap, laces, or a slipper. For bouldering, you will most likely want to utilise a velcro system for a tight enough fit, but also to have the opportunity to take them on and off quickly. This is especially pertinent when you are projecting all day, but don’t want to keep your shoes on between attempts.
Rubber of the Shoe
Unless you are an elite athlete, you probably won’t be able to tell much difference between shoes. Of course, different types of rubber will offer certain advantages. Yet, the most important thing you will need to consider is whether they can be resoled or not. You want one that can to save you money in the long run.
Pick the Bouldering Shoe That Fits You!
All feet are unique. What works for someone else might not for you. Of course, I can offer general advice and say which bouldering shoes perform the best, but at the end of the day, it is up to you to choose which ones you like – I also have a bouldering shoes for beginners guide. I always say take them for a test drive and see. Over the years you will develop an affinity with certain brands or shoes and stick with them forever. Check out my bouldering hub for more general information on the sport!
List of the Best Bouldering Shoes
Below, you can find an overview of the list of best bouldering shoes by category:
- Scarpa Drago – Best for Bouldering
- Scarpa Instinct VS – Great for Indoor Bouldering
- La Sportiva Solution – Top All-Rounder
- La Sportiva Skwama – Great for Edges
- Evolv Shaman – Ultimate Grip
- Five Ten Hiangle – Best for Overhangs
FAQs
Now I am the end of the review of the best bouldering shoes, let’s have a look at some of the most frequently asked questions my readers pose.
What are the best bouldering shoes?
As I have highlighted higher up the page, the best bouldering shoes are often times a personal opinion. Nevertheless, I have chosen the Scarpa Drago as my favourite.
How much do bouldering shoes cost?
Once more, there are a variety of prices, from low-end to high-end. The cost is entirely up to you. I wouldn’t recommend breaking the bank for the sake of it, and that is why I have a variety of options for you in this bouldering shoe review.
How do I know which bouldering shoe to choose?
I have a detailed list of criteria you should look out for when choosing a bouldering shoe. Obviously, actually physically trying them on is always the best option to know for sure.
Do I need special kind of shoes for bouldering?
Yes! It is always a good idea to use specialised bouldering shoes when starting to climb. Of course, you can always rent some at your bouldering gym first, but eventually you will want to own a pair for yourself.